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Lolita Fashion Quintet of Fairies Oks

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Fashion subculture originating in Nihon

This commodity is nigh the Japanese way style. For other uses, see Lolita (disambiguation).

A Japanese woman wearing a dress based on lolita fashion

A shop in Tokyo selling Lolita style clothing

Lolita fashion ( ロリータ・ファッション , rorīta fasshon ) is a subculture from Japan that is highly influenced by Victorian clothing and styles from the Rococo period.[1] [2] [3] [iv] [5] [6] A very distinctive property of Lolita fashion is the aesthetic of cuteness.[7] [eight] This clothing subculture can exist categorized into iii main substyles: 'gothic', 'classic', and 'sugariness'.[3] [ix] Many other substyles such equally 'sailor', 'country', 'hime' (princess), 'ero' (erotic), 'guro' (grotesque), 'qi' and 'wa' (based on traditional Chinese and Japanese dress), 'punk', 'shiro' (white), 'kuro' (black), and 'steampunk' lolita also be. This style evolved into a widely followed subculture in Japan and other countries in the 1990s and 2000s[ten] [11] [12] [thirteen] [14] and may have waned in Nippon as of the 2010s as the fashion became more mainstream.[15] [sixteen] [17]

Clarification [edit]

The main characteristic of Lolita fashion is the book of the skirt, created past wearing a petticoat or crinoline.[18] [19] [20] The skirt can be either bell-shaped or A-line shaped.[20] Components of the lolita wardrobe consist mainly of a blouse (long or short sleeves) with a skirt or a dress, which ordinarily comes to the knees.[21] Lolitas oft wearable wigs in combination with other headwear such as hair bows or a bonnet (like to a Poke bonnet). Lolitas can also wear Victorian way drawers nether their petticoats. For further effect some Lolitas use knee socks, ankle socks or tights together with either high heels or flat shoes with a bow are worn. Other typical Lolita garments are a jumperskirt (JSK) and one-piece (OP).[22]

History [edit]

Although the origin of the fashion is unclear, at the stop of the 1970s a new movement known equally Otome-kei was founded, which slightly influenced Lolita fashion since Otome means maiden and maiden style looks like a lesser elaborated Lolita style.[18] Before Otome-kei emerged, there was already a rise of the cuteness culture in the earlier seventies; during which there was a loftier emphasis on beautiful and childish handwriting in Japanese schools.[23] [24] [25] As a result of that the visitor Sanrio began experimenting with cute designs.[26] The cuteness style, known as kawaii style, became popular in the 1980s.[27] [28] Afterwards Otome-kei, Do-It-Yourself behavior became popular, which led to the emergence of a new style called 'doll-kei', the predecessor of Lolita manner.[29] [21]

In the years of 1977–1998, a big function of the Harajuku shopping district airtight for car traffic on Sundays. The result was an increase in interaction between pedestrians in Harajuku.[30] When brands like Pink House [ja] (1973),[10] [31] Milk (1970),[ten] and Angelic Pretty (1979)[32] began to sell cute wear, that resulted in a new fashion, which would afterward be known as 'Lolita'.[33] The term lolita outset appeared in the style magazine Ryukou Tsushin in the September 1987 issue.[ten] Presently after that Infant, The Stars Shine Brilliant (1988),[34] Metamorphose temps de fille (1993),[35] and other brands emerged.[10] In the 1990s, lolita became more accepted, with visual kei bands like Malice Mizer and others rising in popularity. These band members wore elaborate wearing apparel that fans began to prefer.[34] During this fourth dimension Japan went through an economic depression,[36] leading to an increase in alternative youth and way cultures such as gyaru, otaku, visual kei, and lolita,[34] as well as visualkei inspired clothing such equally Mori, Fairy Kei and Decora[37] The lolita style spread quickly from the Kansai region and finally reached Tokyo,[ citation needed ] partly due to the economic difficulties at that place was a big growth in the cuteness and youth cultures that originated in the seventies.[34]

In the belatedly nineties, the Jingu Bashi (also called the Harajuku Bridge) became known every bit meeting place for youth who wore lolita and other alternative mode,[10] [38] [39] [twoscore] and lolita became more pop causing a spurt of lolita Fashion selling warehouses.[41] Important magazines that contributed to the spread of the mode style were the Gothic & Lolita Bible (2001), a spin-off of the popular Japanese fashion mag KERA [ja] (1998), and FRUiTS (1997).[42] [43] Information technology was around this time when interest and awareness of Lolita Manner began inbound countries outside of Nippon, with The Gothic & Lolita Bible being translated into English, distributed outside of Japan through the publisher Tokyopop,[44] [45] and FRUits publishing an English motion-picture show book of the Japanese Street Fashion in 2001. As the style became further popularized through the Internet, more than shops opened abroad, such as Infant, The Stars Polish Brilliant in Paris (2007)[fourteen] and in New York (2014).[46]

Over time, the youth that gathered in Harajuku or at Harajuku Bridge disappeared. One possible explanation is that the introduction of fast way from retailers H&M and Forever 21 has caused a reduction in the consumption of street fashion.[47] [16] FRUiTS ceased publication while Gothic & Lolita Bible was put on hiatus in 2017.[47] [48]

Sources of inspiration [edit]

Western culture has influenced Lolita way. The book Alice in Wonderland (1865),[49] [fifty] written by Lewis Carroll,[51] [52] has inspired many unlike brands and magazines,[34] such as Alice Deco.[51] The reason that the grapheme Alice was an inspiration source for the Lolita, was because she was an ideal icon for the Shōjo (shoujo)-image,[34] [53] pregnant an image of eternal innocence and beauty.[54] The showtime complete translation of the book was published by Maruyama Eikon in 1910, translated nether the title Ai-chan No Yume Monogatari (Fantastic stories of Ai).[55] Another effigy from the Rococo that served as a source of inspiration was Marie Antoinette;[56] a manga The Rose of Versailles (Lady Oscar) based on her court, was created in 1979.

Popularization [edit]

Musician Mana, pictured at a 2019 fashion testify for his brand Moi-même-Moitié, is credited with helping to popularize Gothic Lolita.

People who have popularized the Lolita style were Yukari Tamura, Mana and Novala Takemoto. Novala wrote the light novel Kamikaze Girls (2002)[11] [57] about the relationship between Momoko, a lolita girl and Ichigo, a Yanki. The book was adjusted into a motion picture[xi] [58] [59] [60] [61] and a manga in 2004. Novala himself claims that "There are no leaders within the lolita world".[62] [63] Mana is a musician and is known for popularizing the Gothic Lolita fashion.[five] He played in the rock band Malice Mizer (1992–2001) and founded the heavy metal band Moi Dix Mois (2002–nowadays). Both bands are a part of the visual kei movement, whose members are known for eccentric expressions and elaborate costumes. He founded his own style label, known equally Moi-même-Moitié in 1999, which specializes in Gothic Lolita.[64] [65] [66] [67] They are both very interested in the Roccoco period.[64]

The government of Japan has also tried to popularize Lolita fashion. The Minister of Foreign Affairs in Feb 2009,[68] assigned models to spread Japanese popular civilisation.[69] [lxx] [71] [24] These people were given the championship of Kawaa Taishi (ambassadors of cuteness).[lxx] [34] The start iii ambassadors of cuteness were model Misako Aoki, who represents the Lolita manner of frills-and-lace, Yu Kimura who represents the Harajuku style, and Shizuka Fujioka who represents the school-uniform-styled fashion.[70] [72] Another way that Japan tries to popularize Japanese street fashion and Lolita is by organizing the international Harajuku walk in Japan, this should caused that other strange countries would organize a similar walk.[73]

Possible reasons for the popularity of Lolita fashion outside of Nihon are a big growth in the involvement of Japanese civilisation and utilise of the internet every bit a place to share information,[38] [71] [74] [75] leading to an increase in worldwide shopping, and the opportunity of enthusiastic foreign Lolitas to purchase fashion.[76] The origin of the Japanese influences tin be constitute in the late nineties, in which cultural goods such as How-do-you-do Kitty, Pokémon,[77] and translated mangas appeared in the west.[78] Anime was already being imported to the west in the early nineties,[79] and scholars also mention that anime and manga caused the popularity of Japanese culture to rise.[37] [lxxx] This is supported by the idea that cultural streams have been going from Nihon to the west, and from the west to Japan.[81]

Motives [edit]

Lolita is seen as a reaction confronting stifling Japanese order, in which young people are pressured to strictly adhere to gender roles and the expectations and responsibilities that are part of these roles.[82] [83] [84] [85] [86] Wearing fashion inspired by childhood wearable is a reaction against this.[87] [83] [88] [89] This can be explained from two perspectives. Firstly, that information technology is a way to escape machismo[18] [64] [xc] [91] [92] [93] and to go back to the eternal beauty of babyhood.[94] [95] Secondly, that it is an escape to a fantasy globe, in which an ideal identity tin can be created that would non be acceptable in daily life.[5] [96] [97]

Some Lolitas say they enjoy the dress of the subculture simply because it is fun and not as a protest against traditional Japanese society.[10] Other motives could be that wearing the style fashion increases their self-confidence[98] [99] [100] [101] or to express an alternative identity.[x] [76] [32] [97] [102] [103]

[edit]

Much of the very early lolitas in the 1990s hand-fabricated well-nigh of their clothing, and were inspired by the Dolly Kei movement of the previous decade.[31] Because of the diffusion of fashion magazines people were able to use lolita patterns to brand their own clothing.[ citation needed ] Another fashion to ain lolita was to purchase information technology 2d-hand.[104] The do-it-yourself behaviour tin be seen more than frequently by people who cannot afford the expensive brands.[105]

Once again retail stores began selling lolita fashion, information technology became less common for lolitas to make their own wear.[ citation needed ] Partly due to the ascent of e-commerce and globalization, lolita clothing became more widely accessible with the help of the Cyberspace. The market was quickly divided into multiple components: ane which purchases mainly from Japanese or Chinese internet marketplaces, the other making use of shopping services to buy Japanese brands,[76] with some communities making larger orders as a group.[106] Not every online shop delivers quality lolita (inspired) products, a notorious instance is Milanoo (2014).[107] Some web shops sell make replicas, which is frowned upon by many in this community.[108] A Chinese replica manufacturer that is famous for his replica design is Oo Jia.[108] 2nd-hand shopping is also an alternative to buying new pieces equally items can exist bought at a lower price (albeit with varying detail condition) and is the sole method of obtaining pieces that are no longer produced by their respective brand.

[edit]

Many lolitas consider beingness photographed without permission to be rude and disrespectful,[109] [110] [111] however some rules differ or overlap in dissimilar parts of this community.[112] Lolitas often host meetings in public spaces such every bit parks, restaurants, cafes, shopping malls, public events, and festivals.[113] Some meetings take place at members' homes, and oft have custom house rules (e.g. each member must bring their own cupcake to the coming together).[114] Lolita meetings therefore are a social aspect of the lolita fashion community, serving as an opportunity for members to run across i another.[ citation needed ] Many lolitas besides used to use Livejournal to communicate, simply many have switched to Facebook groups in the interim.[115]

Terminology [edit]

Lolita style did non sally until after the publication of the novel Lolita (1955),[76] [116] which was written past Vladimir Nabokov, the offset translation of the novel in Japanese appearing in 1959.[54] The novel is about a middle-aged human, Humbert Humbert, who grooms and abuses a twelve-year-old daughter nicknamed Lolita.[117] [118] [119] Because the book focused on the controversial discipline of pedophilia and underage sexuality, "Lolita" soon developed a negative connotation referring to a girl inappropriately sexualized at a very immature age[120] and associated with unacceptable sexual obsession.[121] In Nippon, however, discourse around the novel instead built on the land's romanticized girls' civilization (shōjo bunka), and instead came to be a positive synonym for the "sugariness and adorable" boyish girl, without a perverse or sexual connotation.[122]

Lolita was made into a movie in 1962, which was sexualized and did not show the disinterest that Lolita had in sexuality.[123] [124] A remake was fabricated in 1997. The 17-year-old Amy Fisher, who attempted to murder the wife of her 35-year-old lover and whose crime was made into a motion picture called The Amy Fisher Story (1993), was ofttimes chosen the Long Island Lolita. These films reinforced the sexual association.[125] Other racy connotations were created past Lolita Nylon advertisements (1964)[126] and other media that used Lolita in sexual contexts.[127] Some other factor is that Western culture considers wearing cute vesture when adult to exist childish, associating lolita with paedophile fantasies. In contrast, it is more acceptable for cuteness to be part of style in Nippon.[127]

Within Japanese culture the name refers to cuteness and elegance rather than to sexual attractiveness.[128] [129] Many lolitas in Japan are not aware that lolita is associated with Nabokov'southward book and they are disgusted by information technology when they detect such relation.[130] The Japanese sense of "Lolita" also appears in lolicon (from "Lolita complex"),[131] [132] a term associated with Russell Trainer's novel The Lolita Circuitous (1966, translated 1969) and associated with otaku (anime and manga fan) culture. The concept and genre of media reflects a blend between the aesthetic of kawaii and sexual themes in fiction.[122]

Another common confusion is between the Lolita fashion way and cosplay.[133] Although both spread from Japan, they are dissimilar and should exist perceived as independent from each other;[134] one is a mode style while the other is function-play, with clothing and accessory existence used to play a grapheme. This does not exclude that there may be some overlap between members of both groups.[135] This can be seen at anime conventions such as the convention in Götenborg in which cosplay and Japanese fashion is mixed.[136] For some Lolitas, information technology is insulting if people label their outfit as a costume.[10] [137]

Gallery [edit]

  • Classic Lolita

  • Former School Lolita

  • Shiro/White Lolita (left) and Kuro/Blackness Lolita (right)

  • Sugariness Lolita

  • Sweet Lolita

  • Pirate Lolita

  • Punk Lolita

  • Wa-Lolita with characteristics of Guro Lolita (eyepatch)

  • Ouji (a similar mode with a more masculine advent)

Meet also [edit]

  • Kamikaze Girls
  • Kogal
  • Novala Takemoto

References [edit]

Citations [edit]

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General references [edit]

  • Berry, B. (2017). Ethnographic Comparing of a Niche Fashion Group, Lolita (Thesis). Florida Atlantic University.
  • Christopherson, Yard. (2014). The Power of Beautiful: Redefining Kawaii Culture Equally a Feminist Movement (Thesis). Carthage College. Archived from the original on 11 Baronial 2017. Retrieved 10 February 2018.
  • Coombes, Thou. (2016). Consuming Hello Kitty: Saccharide Cuteness in Japanese Club (Thesis). Wellesley Higher.
  • Gatlin, Chancy J. (2014). The Fashion of Frill: The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community (Thesis). Georgia State University.
  • Haijima, A. (2013). Japanese Pop Civilization in Latvia: Lolita and Mori Fashion (Thesis). University of Latvia.
  • Hardy Bernal, Kathryn A. (2007). Kamikaze Girls and Loli-Goths. Fashion in Fiction Briefing, University of Applied science, Sydney, Australia. Archived from the original on eleven August 2017. Retrieved xi Feb 2018.
  • Hardy Bernal, Kathryn Adele (2011). The Lolita Complex: A Japanese way subculture and its paradoxes (PDF) (MPhil Thesis). Auckland University of Technology. hdl:10292/2448.
  • Hinton, Perry R. (2013). "Returning in a Different Style: Culture, Communication, and Changing Representations of Lolita in Japan and the West". International Periodical of Advice. 7: 1582–1602.
  • Mikami, K. (2011). Cultural Globalization in People's Life Experiences: Japanese Popular Cultural Styles in Sweden (Thesis). Stockholm University.
  • Monden, Masafumi (2008). "Transcultural Flow of Demure Aesthetics: Examining Cultural Globalisation through Gothic & Lolita Fashion, The Nippon Foundation Sydney". New Voices. 2: 21–40. doi:10.21159/nv.02.02.
  • Onohara, N. (2011). "Japan as way: Gimmicky reflections on beingness fashionable". Acta Orientalia Vilnensia. 12 (i): 29–41. doi:10.15388/AOV.2011.0.1095.
  • Peirson-Smith, A. (2015). Hey sister, can I infringe your style?: a study of the trans-cultural, trans-textual flows of the Gothic Lolita trend in Asia and beyond (Thesis). City Academy of Hong Kong.
  • Plevíková, I. (2017). Lolita: A Cultural Analysis (Thesis). Masarykova Univerzita.
  • Robinson, K. (2014). Empowered Princesses: An Ethnographic Test of the Practices, Rituals, and Conflicts within Lolita Fashion Communities in the United states of america (Thesis). Georgia State University.
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  • Valdimarsdótti, I. Guðlaug (2015). Fashion Subcultures in Japan. A multilayered history of street fashion in Japan (Thesis). University of Iceland.
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Further reading and documentaries [edit]

  • Lolitas Of Amsterdam | Style Out There | Refinery29 (documentary) at YouTube
  • Lolita Fashion documentaries (documentaires) playlist at YouTube
  • List of Lolita brands at Tumblr (archived version at annal, 14 August 2017 version)
  • Rebels in Frills: a Literature Review on Lolita Subculture at Academia (thesis) from Due south Carolina Honors Higher
  • Shoichi Aoki Interview (2003) founder of the street fashion magazine FRUiTS at ABC Australia (archived version at archive, 14 August 2017 version)
  • The Tea Party Guild's 5th Ceremony starring Juliette et Justine: Q&A (2012) at Jame Globe (archived version at archive, 14 August 2017 version)
  • Innocent World Tea Political party in Vienna: Q&A (2013) at Jame World (archived version at archive, 14 Baronial 2017 version)
  • The Tea Party Club Presents: Revelry Q&A (2014) at Jame World (archived version at archive, 14 Baronial 2017 version)

External links [edit]

  • Japan Lolita Association
  • Lolita library of brands

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